Markings & hallmarks

Markings regroup both hallmarks and engravings and are dealt with differently worldwide, according to the local legislation.

The most common markings used are:

  • the assay marks, indicate the nature of the metal(s) used

  • the maker's mark or importer mark
  • the assay office mark (in the UK)
  • the identification number (or SKU)
  • and any other type of engraving such as a date to remember or the groom and bride's names

What's a (hall)mark ?

A hallmark is a tiny marking on the metal part of a piece aiming to give several and various information, it is better read with a loupe. Many marks may be applied on a single piece each alluing to a different information.

Purists used the verb "insculp" a mark on the metal. It may be impressed with a punch and a ball-peen hammer or laser-engraved. The latter is more and more used lately. If the mark is punched, we use the tool called a punch, a straight or bent steel rod whose extremity show the embossed sign to be impressed. The punch is placed and held on the metal and impressed with a ball-peen hammer.

Several types of marks exist, some compulsory, some optionnal:

  • assay mark

  • maker's or sponsor's mark

  • import mark

  • assay office mark (UK)

  • date letter mark (UK)

  • commemorative mark (on royal jewels or jewels with royal traditions)

  • fairtrade metal hallmark

  • decorative mark

In the UK

All items being sold as gold, silver, platinum or palladium must be hallmarked to confirm that they meet the legal standard.

Hallmarking rules have evolved over the years. Nowadays

In the USA

Hallmarking is not a legal requirement in the USA. However American brands who wants traceability or who care to sell their jewellery abroad would have them follow the hallmarking rules of the targeted markets.

Maker's mark

 

In France the maker's mark is unique to each manufacturing workshop and, just like the import hallmark, be registered at the French assay office.

However markings' requirements and hallmarks meaning and information differ from one country to another.

Markings are important at all levels of the manufactured items' industry: from ring to objets, including watches.

They are the signs we resort to in order to:

  • assess a piece's timeline

  • identify a brand

  • identify a manufacturer

  • the piece's authenticity and an its origin.

In France, maker's mark and assay mark are compulsory. Assay mark is compulsory in the UK, however they use the assay office mark instead of a maker's mark and they correspond to various UK areas.

Hallmarks around the world

 

Each country has various regulations which are more or less strict. Oftentimes in order to identify the metal type, one may read the fineness of the metal engraved as such for gold for instance: 750, 585, 750, 916 ou 999. Sometimes numbered engraving feature in the middle of a scale or engraved as such. Sometimes it is merely hand-engraved "18K" at the back of a piece.

Some marks may look like a maker's mark but they very well may be an assay office mark from the area of the country in which the mark was stamped. If one wants to decipher markings with no prior knowledge about it, they may need dedicated books and websites in order to accomplish the task.

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